Ferrata delle Taccole

Via Ferrata · Verona
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Difficulty
D difficult
Distance
10.8 km
Duration
6:20h
Ascent
1061 m
Descent
1073 m
Loop Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route
Very demanding climbing route over the Ferrata delle Taccole, which is sparsely frequented due to the long ascent and the short climb, but offers beautiful views of Lake Garda
The Ferrata delle Taccole is located on the ridge of Monte Baldo in the Garda mountains. A rather long ascent initially leads over meadows and through mountain pines. Then, over a ridge path and through a scree field we reach the start of the via ferrata. Here we can put ourselves to the test. A narrow chimney, a 30 m high slab and some cracks demand a lot of strength and condition from us. The very difficult via ferrata is only recommended for experienced climbers. After the strenuous climb, we reach the summit of Vetta della Buse (2154 m) within a few minutes. Here we can reward our efforts with a fantastic view of Lake Garda. Over the Passo del Camino (2128 m) we follow the well-known path back to the starting point.

Author’s recommendation

If the weather is good, you can make the ascent to Punta Telegrafo (2200 m), which can be reached within a few minutes from Rifugio Telegrafo. From there, you have a magnificent view.
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Difficulty
D difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Vetta delle Buse, 2154 m
Lowest point
1253 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition
NESW
Access
825 m, 2:30 h
Wall height
160 m
Climbing length
0:45 h
Descent
900 m, 1:30 h

Safety information

This difficult via ferrata is only recommended for experienced via ferrata walkers. There are no escape or demolition possibilities on the way.

Start

Turn between Rifugio Novezzina and Rifugio Cedron (1253 m)
Coordinates:
DD
45.697886, 10.854783
DMS
45°41'52.4"N 10°51'17.2"E
UTM
32T 644399 5062154
w3w 
///drivers.rebutted.hitless

Destination

Turn between Rifugio Novezzina and Rifugio Cedron

Turn-by-turn directions

 We start the tour at the Rifugio Novezzin. There you will find the path leading to the via ferrata and a small information board. At first, we walk along a footpath uphill over meadows. We pass through mountain pines and follow the signpost no. 657 towards Rifugio Telegrafo. After a while, we reach the very wide path n. 658, which is part of the Sentiero E7.

Passing a scree field, we reach the entrance to the Ferrata delle Taccole. Here we first have to work our way up through an almost vertical 10-meter chimney (C). Some pins help us climb upwards. In the following, a short ascent over a block (B/C) awaits us. It gets easier and a secured path leads around the wall (B). The next challenge a 30 m-high smooth rock plate (C/D). A deep crack runs through it on the left. The route is steep and almost vertical. We use the pins, natural steps, ledges and the crack to climb the rock plate. For the next 10 meters, we have to climb through a chimney-like intersection (D). Here it can be slippery when wet. Some old climbing equipment has been left here, but use it with care! We still have a hard ascent ahead of us before the belay gets easier (A/B).

From here we reach the summit of the Vetta della Buse (2154 m) and can enjoy the impressive view of Lake Garda. After a short break, we follow the unmarked but visible pathways to the right at the summit and reach the Passo del Camino (2128 m) a few minutes later. Here we meet the wide path E7 and quickly return to the via ferrata, from where we take the same route back to the starting point.

Public transport

Take the train to Ferrara di Monte Baldo. No public transportation to the starting point of the route.

Getting there

Take the A22 Brenner motorway to Ala-Avio, continue on the SP90 to Avio, then take the SP208, SP230 and SP3 to Rifugio Novezzina

Parking

Small parking space between Rifugio Novezzina and Rifugio Cedron

Coordinates

DD
45.697886, 10.854783
DMS
45°41'52.4"N 10°51'17.2"E
UTM
32T 644399 5062154
w3w 
///drivers.rebutted.hitless
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Kompass Map Nr. 102 "Lago di Garda - Monte Baldo" (1:50)

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

sturdy shoes, via ferrata equipment (climbing harness, KS set, helmet, via ferrata gloves)
Responsible for this content
Outdooractive Editors 
outdooractive.com User
Author
Hartmut Wimmer 
Updated: August 04, 2020

Travel Guide: Via ferratas in Verona


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Reviews

5.0
(1)
Ingo Erlenwein 
June 07, 2018 · Community
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Done at June 01, 2018

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