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Four days through the Brenta Mountains: The Bocchette trail in the Dolomites is one of the most famous via ferrata classics in Europe. The marvellous path leads through the breathtaking mountain scenery of the Brenta and takes you to some great refugios to spend the nights.
This tour is located in the area of a road block and is therefore closed.
The Via Bocchette is one of the best via ferrata-routes in Europe and is regarded as an absolute classic of the Alps by experienced mountaineers. The trail was already opened in the 1930s but still guarantees a superlative climbing adventure for any avid Ferratista. On the four-day tour across the Brenta, the route leads in an altitude of more than 3000 meters. Over narrow ledges, along yawning chasms, jagged rock faces and ladders at the Grostè pass through the Brenta to the south and back to Madonna di Campiglio. Between the Rifugios it applies to climbing technically demanding sections, to enjoy breathtaking vistas and spectacular views, to cross numerous nicks and climb to the summit. Although individual stages of the path can also be done as day trips, whoever has the time, should enjoy this alpine classic in its full length.
Updated: August 04, 2017
Best time of year
The Bocchette - way is an alpine trail at over 3,000 meters and bears risks . Numerous , partly icy , nicks , burrs and glaciers must be crossed on the tour. In addition there is always a certain rockfall risk by previous climbers. Another problem is the weather , which is notorious in the Brenta . Low clouds and dense fog and weather changes are not uncommon in the region, and often make forecasts for a period of more than two days impossible. Ultimately, the climbing is partially technically demanding. Even though t he majority of the route is located in the technically lower to mid range (A to B) , some sections are much more demanding (C). Good condition , vertigo and absolute slip resistance are essential for an enjoyable the Brenta- crossing .
Complete climbing equipment (harness, via ferrata-set, helmet, climbing gloves), hiking boots / climbing shoes, possibly crampons, ice ax and a rope for glacier crossings .
Tips, hints and links
For a hut trip on the Bocchette - way you should make reservations for the refugios in advance (especially during peak season):
Access: From the summit station at the Passo del Grostè ( 2,446 m) we march south on the road 305 over a large boulder field to the already visible north walls of the Cima Grostè . The path to the left along the wallbase leads over rock steps up to the sign at the beginning of the ferrata at 2726 m.
Route: A first band (A ) insured with short - and longer unsecured walking passages leads us to the Gamsscharte . From here we can admire the white peaks of the Adamello group before we ascend through another band with short insured passages (A) to the highest point of the day trip at 2905 meters (here you can reach the summit path to the 2988 m high Cima Falkner ). What follows next is a first prolonged descent climbing over rock walls ( B), after we scree and reach a band system ( A, short B ) and after a long walking section a scenic plateau above the Bocca Alta di Vallesinella, we enjoy the view of the mighty Brenta floor in the west. Now we follow the path along the south-eastern slopes of Cima Falkner , until we reach a n intersection. The right trail is the Sentiero Dallagiacoma (Route 315 ) and leads us over snowfields and scree to the Rifugio Tuckett .
Alternatively we choose the left route (Route 305) over a short assured passage ( A) and a long ladder system ( only A , last four are more exposed and B) in the Bocca di Tuckett . From here we go on the 303 , initially over the remnants of the glacier , and later through a boulder field , down to the Rifugio Tuckett 400 m below .
Day 2: Sentiero Bocchette Alte (6 h)
Route: From Rifugio Tuckett, we climb up on the way 303 over a steep snow field and reach the entrance to the Bocca del Tuckett. On rocky steps (A / B) we arrive at a long ladder, climb another upswing and reach a few short ladders. We exceed the only partially insured Garbari-band (A), cross several rock ledges (a rope comes in handy if snowy) and get on over ladders (B / C) in an ice chute downwards. We climb through a belt system to the highest point of the tour at 3020 m (B) and after a courageous spreading step (A / B) we stand on the exposed 20 m long ridge and impressive "Head of friendship."ladder. Up on the plateau of the Massodi Spallone at 3004 meters, we enjoy a remarkable view over the Brenta peaks before we descend unsecured on ladders and rock-steps (B) up to a band. After we climb a long ladder system to a panel at the Bocca Massodi. Here we have two options:
a) The Trail Umberto Quintavalle leads left – traversing the exposed (C) and almost vertical rock wall – to a narrow and steep saddle and further on to the gravel plateau on the edge of the Sfulmini glacier. From the Spallone the Massodi at the top of the Brenta glacier the way 323 leads around this massive mountaintop glacier to the already visible Rifugio Alimonta.
b.) The more difficult path is the Oliva Detassis (C). Here we climb over an almost 100 meters long wire system (usually B, just short passages C), which leads us down along the west wall of the Spallone dei Massodi into a gap at the top of Brenta glacier. From the edge of the Massodi Spallone at the top of Brenta glacier the way 323 leads around a massive mountaintop glacier to the Rifugio Alimonta.
Day 3: Sentiero Bocchette Centrale (4-5 h)
Route: From Rifugio Alimonta we climb the Sfulmini glacier to the start of the Bocca degli Armi. Right at the beginning we climb an upswing via several ladders (B) and make a courageous spreading step (B). Now the first of the exposed Brenta band lies ahead of us. On the first band (A) we enjoy the spectacular route along the eastern flanks before crossing a canyon (A / B). We follow the long band further down (A, A / B). Directly below the Campanile Basso a lies a small plateau (ideal resting place where you can admire the climbers on the sheer rock walls of the freestanding rock needle Campanile Basso) from which we climb down a steep descent to the Bocchetta di Campanile Basso. Here we reach another ledge, followed by several short ascents (A, A / B) and a walking section. We then climb down a ladder (B) and some steps (B) and reach another long band (A), where we cross the western flank of the mountain range towards Bocca di Brenta. At the end we climb down a long ladder (B) and reach the end of the via ferrata in a boulder field, a few meters below the Bocca di Brenta. We march up over the boulders to the Bocca di Brenta on 318 and can already see the Rifugio Pedrotti Tosa.
Day 4: Sentiero Brentari and Sentiero dell'Ideale (6-7 h)
Route: From Rifugio Pedrotti Tosa we hike around Bocca di Brenta. From here we follow the broad bands at the 304 in the direction of Cima Tosa to a small wooden bridge at the entrance to the via ferrata. From the beginning of the small wooden bridge at the entrance (A) the Sentiero Brentari leads us via a short ribbon (A) to a ladder (A / B). We pass a band system (A) and descend (B, A / B) to the Bocca di Tosa. We reach the demanding descent to the glacier d'Ambiez, come across a band (A / B) and a long ladder (B). We climb two steep ladders (B) and reach another band, where we cross the rocks (A). We then descend a long ladder (B) down to a signpost. In rocky but increasingly becoming smoother terrain (C) we descend to a ladder (B), which marks the end of the Sentiero Brentari. On the way 304 we hike down the glacier and traverse at a wall below the Bocca d'Ambiez to the right.
The Sentiero dell'Ideale begins with a brief passage that has to be overcome by means of a textile rope which is installed there (B / C). On bands (B), we walk past a sign, and reach a ramp (A / B), which leads us into the Ambiez-notch (B). We climb on over bands and steps (B) and after very steep brackets (B / C) down to a band. Now we follow the trail to the remnants of the Camosci glacier. We traverse left on the way 304 to Glacier, pass another notch (A) and finally reach the end of the via ferrata.
Descent: On the path 304 we hike to the Rifugio 12 apostles in 1.5 and continue on the 307 and later 324 down to Val d'agola and Madonna di Campiglio, through the village and back to the starting point of our tour at the Grostè cable car valley station.
Motorway A22, exit at San Michele all ' Adige Mezzo Lombardo , then on the SS43 and SS42 to Dimaro . Turn left onto the SS239 in the direction of Madonna di Campiglio. Parking at Grostè cable car valley station.