Abergwesyn Pass, Powys

From the self-proclaimed smallest town in Britain, this drive takes you along the idyllic wooded valley of the Afon Irfon, beneath the broken crags of Esgair Irfon then up the vertiginous Devil’s Staircase – and the descent on the other side is just as steep! You then wind your way across expansive open moorland with views across much of mid-Wales before the final descent into the market town of Tregaron.

From the centre of Llanwrtyd Wells, famed for the World Bog Snorkelling Championships and annual Man v Horse Marathon, drive north on an unnamed minor road along the Irfon Valley.

Although early into the journey the picnic site of Washpool is a lovely stop, especially in summer when kids will love playing in the crystal clear rock pool.
Continue north to Abergwesyn, where you turn sharply left. This single-track road was once a major drover’s route used to herd cattle to markets in England. At the height of the trade, 30,000 cattle were hearded in a year, and along this road herds of up to 200 animals would be driven at a time, along with geese and ducks, their feet dipped in tar and sand for protection. The drovers even sold the horses on which they rode, with the walk home taking some three weeks.

The wild valley beneath the crags of Esgair Irfon feels more like the Scottish Highlands than Wales, and after passing a series of small bridges straddling meanders in the River Irfon, you start the steep ascent of the Devil’s Staircase. It’s less than a mile long but challenging all the same.
Dropping down the northwestern side of the staircase, fork right across open moorlands, the habitat of the magnificent red kite. In the 16th century the area was also home to Twm Siôn Cati, a Welsh Robin Hood figure who was variously a robber, trickster and highwayman who hid from the law in a cave in the hills above nearby Rhandirmwyn. 

Turn left to the picnic site in Cwm Berwyn for the 15-minute walk to the sparkling waters of Llyn Berwyn – from here drop down the Berwyn Valley into Tregaron town centre. 

SCENERY

Wooded valleys, open moorland and forest.

HOW TO GET THERE

BY CAR: Llanwrtyd Wells is on the A483 between Llandovery and Builth Wells

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT: The Heart of Wales railway line runs through Llanwrtyd Wells. www.heart-of-wales.co.uk

REFRESHMENTS

The Talbot Hotel
Tregaron, Ceredigion SY25 6JL
01974 298208
talbothotel-tregaron.com

MAP

Ordnance Survey Landranger Map 146 and 147.
Grid ref: SN 875 465

NEARBY EXCURSIONS

Cors Caron Nature Reserve
Cors Caron, Tregaron, Ceredigion SY25 6AN
The finest raised bog system in Britain, with footpaths and cycle trails across it, and from October – March at 2.00pm there are red kite feeding sessions at Pont Einon on the outskirts of Tregaron. Admission is free.

At Strata Florida Abbey, 5 miles north of Tregaron off the B4343, you can visit the remains of a 12th century Cistercian abbey in beautiful grounds. Open year-round. The shop, exhibition and museum are open Apr-Sep, Wed-Sun, 10am-5pm. Adults £2.90, concessions £2.50.

MORE INFO

Llanwrtyd Wells Tourist Information Centre
01591 610666
llanwrtyd-wells.powys.org.uk
Ceredigion Tourism
tourism.ceredigion.gov.uk
Visit Wales
0870 8300 306
www.visitwales.co.uk