It is probably the most popular sector for ice climbing in the area, aided by the excellent visibility of the flows and either practically zero or very convenient access. There are various main climbs of up to 200 metres long, a good number of partially equipped single pitches (belay stations and some passage protection) and a number of mixed pitches scattered alongside the main flows. The most classic route of Acquatona where there is always plenty of ice, often of excellent quality.Its great popularity often makes the climb “stepped”.Perfect for preparing to climb vertical stretches.
Length and difficulty: 90 metres; II 4.
Mauro Colle Fontana
Updated: January 29, 2018
Best time of year
Tips, hints and links
Variants: it is possible to climb the flow on the right (90 metres, difficulty II 4 with an intermediate belay station at 3 metres) or on the left (90 metres, difficulty II 4+).
Sappada (1053 m)
33T 319189 5160971
Parking in front of the waterfalls
Starting point:to reach the starting point from the main car park, go down towards the river Piave, along a well-beaten path, towards a weir across the river. Cross the river with the aid of a metal cable (a small pulley is highly advisable).Once the watercourse has been crossed, head towards the clearly visible flow of Diagonal, starting the climb at a characteristic dihedral overhang.
Route:climb the dihedral up to the first belay station with bolt at around 20 metres, climb the left wall of the dihedral again and continue to a niche, inside which it is possible to belay (35 m 75° stretches at 80° SS)Leave the niche on the left, or with more difficulty on the right, and climb a vertical wall about 10 metres high; at this point, the verticality reduces and the climb is continued aiming slight to the left of the end ledge (40 m 90° then 80° SC)
Descent:with double rope on the climbing route
From Sappada to Santo Stefano di Cadore, the large frozen face of Diagonal can be seen on the right, just before a bridge.Cars can be parked in a clearing in front of the waterfalls.The Piave is crossed with the aid of a metal cable placed on the saddle of the weir (pulley advisable).This is the perfect sector for ice flows and single pitch climbs.