Tryfan (Sept 2014) Scramble

PLEASE NOTE: The GPX trace on this route is for use as a guide only, its accuracy may change depending on the scale of map you are using. Use in combination with judgement and a paper map. We have taken all reasonable steps to ensure these walks are safe and correctly described. However things do change and all outdoor activities involve a degree of risk. The publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions or for any injuries or accidents that occur whilst following this walk. Trail magazine, Copyright Bauer Media Limited.


Distance 4.4km (2¾ miles)
Total ascent 640m
Time 4 hours
Start/finish Gwern Gof Uchaf (SH673605)
Nearest town Bethesda
Terrain Grade 1 scrambling with optional sections of Grade 2. An intricate route but surprisingly straightforward to navigate

Accommodation Plas Curig Hostel in Capel Curig www.snowdoniahostel.co.uk; campsites in the Ogwen Valley at SH687601 and SH687602Public transport bus to Ogwen Valley www.gwynedd.gov.uk
Tourist info Snowdonia National Park Info Centre, Betws y Coed (01690) 710426

Best pub The Bryn Tyrch, Capel Curig

Tryfan is beautiful – from whichever direction it’s viewed. Iconic even. There is no questioning why it was recently voted Britain’s most beloved peak by readers of this very publication. On any weekend or bank holiday, rain or shine, there are hundreds of people enjoying the classic north ridge scramble. Even more ascend the south ridge, which offers an easier route to the mountain’s lofty and isolated summit.

Of all the mountains in this part of North Wales, only Snowdon’s summit sees more visitors. Shaped like a huge fin, the east face  of Tryfan dominates the view as you enter the Ogwen Valley from Capel Curig. Its simple, almost classical silhouette hides a complex topography of huge buttresses, deep gullies and hidden amphitheatres.  It is one of Snowdonia’s landmarks, but  it’s visited by only a fraction of those who set foot on Tryfan.

The scrambling routes that sneak among the nooks and crannies of the  east face always offer a quiet way to Tryfan’s summit, even on the busiest  of weekends. Bastow Buttress is one of these routes. Not only is it off the beaten track, but it is also a good choice for a  first foray onto more serious scrambling terrain.

There are no obligatory hard sections as an easier scrambling alternative (mostly a scree path) runs alongside for virtually the whole of its height. Each individual section can be taken or missed at will. Combine an ascent of Bastow Buttress with a descent of the atmospheric Little and North Gullies (the easiest of the  east face scrambles) and you’ll be in  that unusual situation of having been  ‘out of the way’ on Tryfan.
SH673605 From behind Gwern Gof Uchaf farmhouse, follow a waymarked footpath obliquely across the hillside, to the slab of Tryfan Bach. From the slab follow a rough path uphill, until just before a fence. Turn right and follow a well-used track for 200m, to a steep gully containing a paved staircase.

SH667599 At the top of the gully, turn left and follow any of a number of rough tracks, which all eventually converge to form the main Heather Terrace path. Head up the path and ignore the first gully, which is little more than a watercourse containing grass and stones. Continue underneath the first proper crags to a better-defined second gully. This is Bastow Gully, which has steep retaining walls and a uniform grassy bed littered with small blocks.

SH666595 Scramble From 10m up Bastow Gully,gain the niche on the right and follow a fissure, past a chockstone, to a small ledge on the front of the buttress. Move rightwards in an exposed position, stepping underneath two parallel grooves, to reach a heather ledge. Scramble upwards to reach a much larger heather platform (this same point can also be reached by starting about 15m further up Bastow Gully and ascending an easier V-shaped groove). A meandering scree path now leads up through easy heather terrain to the next steepening. The steepening, or rise, extends across the width of the buttress. On the left of the steepening is a wide rock barrier whose left edge overlooks Bastow Gully. An ascent of this barrier is possible but at the upper limit of scrambling technicality. The centre of the steepening comprises a heathery bay capped by blocks, through which the scree path continues. On the right of the steepening is an easy-angled rock rib. Gain the broad crest of this rib and scramble up to the next level section.When practical, walk left to reach the rocks closest to Bastow Gully. Scramble upwards over ribs and short steps, often in quite exposed positions overlooking the steep wall of the gully. Finally, after a noticeably tricky, small slab, the upper broad crest of Bastow Buttress leads to a large platform on the north ridge.
SH664596 The natural continuation from the platform would be to scramble up the remaining, and best part of, the north ridge. However, to stay with the quiet theme of the day, the route now follows the eastern traverse path. The path starts beneath the steep nose of rock that rears up from the platform. Sidle to the left (east) of the nose and follow a wide shelf-line, which leads into the upper amphitheatre of Nor’ Nor’ Gully. The narrow path then skirts around the amphitheatre, taking a gently rising line towards a rocky gap, between the north buttress and the north summit.

SH664594 A scramble over the gap leads into the upper amphitheatre of North Gully. The path then contours around to the far side of the amphitheatre. It then begins to climb, over a series of short scrambly steps, to reach a shoulder on top of the central buttress, directly beneath Adam and Eve. Standing facing the summit, the path heads left (south), almost into the upper reaches of South Gully, before cutting back up and right. A short scramble then leads to the gap between Adam and Eve.

SH663593 Head back down the Eastern Traverse Path into the upper amphitheatre of North Gully. Descend the easy scree path that zigzags down the wide gully bed. At half height, directly above an appreciable steepening, branch off to the right, into the much narrower Little Gully. A short but straightforward scramble down the confined lowersection of the gully brings you out midway along the Heather Terrace. Head south up the terrace, as far as the intersection with the path coming from Tryfan’s south col.
SH664591 Drop east, down a well-worn scree path, to meet with the main Cwm Tryfan path. Follow this back to the starting point, with jaw-dropping views of where you’ve just been.