Ladhar Bheinn. Two day route (November 2014)

PLEASE NOTE: The GPX trace on this route is for use as a guide only, its accuracy may change depending on the scale of map you are using. Use in combination with judgement and a paper map. We have taken all reasonable steps to ensure these walks are safe and correctly described. However things do change and all outdoor activities involve a degree of risk. The publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions or for any injuries or accidents that occur whilst following this walk. Trail magazine, Copyright Bauer Media Limited.


Distance Day one 9.3km (5¾ miles); Day two 25.7km (16 miles)
Total ascent Day one 450m; Day two 1840m
Time Day one 4 hours; Day two 11 hours
Start/finish NG950065
Nearest town Fort Augustus by road; Mallaig by ferry
Terrain good paths on walk-in; a well-trodden hill route including some very steep and pathless sections in a remote area
Public transport Invergarry is the nearest bus stop City Link Buses 08705505050, www.travelinescotland.com Spean Bridge Station, www.scotrail.co.uk

Tourist info www.knoydartfoundation.com
Knoydart is a wild peninsula in the north-west of Scotland, but it’s as hard to get to as a Hebridean island (or even harder). There are no casual  day walks and no easy peak-bagging to be  had. However you approach it, you’ll have to allow extra time for your trip. This is a good thing, of course, as you’ll end up spending time  in wild scenery fringed  by sea and sand and surrounded by some of the finest peaks the north-west has to offer.

If you get clear weather you’ll have the darkest of skies above you to spot constellations, and you’re many hours away from the nearest road: bliss. But it doesn’t mean you have to rough it. Our route in from the north does take us past some good accommodation (which can be busy, so book ahead), meaning you can rest up and relax after putting  the miles in from Kinloch Hourn or even sit out a storm. You can carry a tent too and camp at the Barrisdale site (which I’ve based the route on) or – even better – head into the hills with your tent  still in your rucksack.  

It’s a big landscape and one that’s easy to hide yourself in, find your  own space and soak in the very real Highland atmosphere. At the heart of the route is Ladhar Bheinn, and it’s hard to imagine a mountain more fitting in its location: wild, rugged and beautiful.  This is a trip you really won’t forget.

NG950065 The start point is 20 miles along a dead-end singletrack road at Kinloch Hourn, where you leave your vehicle in a car park run by the farm for a small fee. From here follow the path onwards by the loch. The track gets rougher but good progress can be made and the scenery is glorious beside the long and fjord-esque Loch Hourn. Rugged mountainous slopes rise all around with patches of lush greenery and ancient Scots pines to help divert you from the miles ahead. There are some ascents, including up to 100m and back down at Runival but generally the way is easy going and soon you’ll see Ladhar Bheinn as you round the lower slopes of Carn Mairi.
NG872048 Walk into Barisdale, and if you do choose to spend the night here get a good sleep, because tomorrow is going to be a very big day! Leave the pleasant oasis of Barisdale on a good track heading south and climbing between Luinne Bheinn and Stob a’ Chearcaill. This winds its way to a height of 450m at the Mam Barrisdale pass.

NG856018 The regular ascent route usually tackles Stob a Chearcaill’s ledges head-on as a tricky scramble with a good bit of exposure, but I prefer taking this side door onto the hill as I’m usually carrying camping kit and it’s easier going. Cross easy grassy slopes and take your own line up the steep grass ahead; you’ll have to use a steadying hand here and there, but the new views south down Gleann an Dubh Lochain and out to sea should delight when you stop for a rest.

NG843028 Arrive on the short ridge between Stob a’ Chearcaill and Aonach Sgoilte, and from here take the ridge that cuts right and forms a rocky headwall facing into Coire Dhorrcaill. Initially descend on easy ground and past a rugged ridge that cuts into the corrie on your right. There’s a steep drop into a break in the lowest point on the ridge. The climb back up the other side is rough and will require some handwork but there’s no real difficulty or exposure. The initial ascent ahead is gradual but the terrain is rough and the ridge twisting before a final climb to the level and narrow summit ridge of Ladhar Bheinn itself.

NG821041 Walk the ridge and visit the summit cairn and the trig pillar, taking in views you won’t forget with sea, mountain and sky: the perfect combination. Linger as long as you dare, there’s still a long way to go, retrace your steps to Stob a’ Choire Odhair’s adjoining ridge.

NG825040 Carefully follow the narrow and rather airy rocky ridge down and then up and over Stob a’ Choire Odhair, descending the broader ridge beyond.

NG834044 Take your own line down into Coire Dhorrcail, a glorious and wild place to visit, walled with sheer rock.
NG850043 Cross the river by some shielings (huts) and pick up a good track, which contours out of the corrie and back down to Barisdale.

NG871041 Rejoin your outward route and start the long walk back with a head full of memories.