HPB Lucker Hall: Craster & Dunstanburgh

L. Robson & Sons Ltd still cure fish, including salmon and haddock in the original smokehouses which are over 130 years old. Bondholders will be able to purchase these products in Robson’s shop or enjoy them directly in the adjacent fish restaurant as well as in the The Jolly Fisherman pub and the Shoreline Café.  

At the same time, Craster provides access to the impressive ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle which stand on a dramatic headline just over a mile from the village. The castle, once a defence against invading Scottish forces and the site of conflict in the War of the Roses, is owned by the National Trust and managed by English Heritage. The walk begins with a stroll around the village to acquaint you with places you may wish to patronise at the end of the walk. You then head for the castle. The 2½ mile walk there and back is a very popular walk in itself. The route continues beyond the castle, between Dunstanburgh Golf Club and the coastline, on top of the dunes. It crosses the golf course, at which point there is an opportunity for a shorter walk. Otherwise you proceed inland through the neighbouring village of Embleton before returning on a quieter route back to Craster.


1. Within the car park area, just above the Tourist Information Centre and toilet block, go through the gateway adjacent to “Luxury Holiday Pine Cottages”. Proceed straight ahead. Follow the firm path as it climbs and turns right. Ignore side lanes off until you pass the Memorial Hall and arrive at a junction beside the Church of St Peter the Fisherman. Turn left and at a further junction left again. Proceed ahead to the harbour, passing the Max Oxley Gallery and gift shop, the Shoreline Café, The Jolly Fisherman pub and Robson’s smokehouse, shop and restaurant (depending on the time of day you may wish to enjoy these facilities now or on your return to Craster).

2. At the harbour, pass the concrete-block war memorial on your right and turn right onto Dunstanburgh Road. Walk past the cottages and go through the National Trust gate at the sign, “Dunstanburgh Castle 1¼; Coast Path”. You soon go through a second gate. Enjoy the stroll towards the castle for about ¾ miles and at a fork, after the second of two further gates, bear left (unless you wish to climb ahead to the castle). 

3. With the castle above on the right, the path skirts around the reeds to your right and the gorse to your left. It joins a surfaced path over a particularly marshy section and winds below the western flank and tower of the castle. A small waymark post indicates you are following, “St Oswald’s Way, Northumberland Coast Path” and you are soon close to the coast again. The path leads through a kissing gate where you are advised “Beware of flying golf balls” as you are approaching Dunstanbugh Castle Golf Club.

4. Ignore a St Oswald’s waymark which would take you left across the approach to the green. Instead bear right on the track which goes past the twisted Greymare Rock. Follow the clear undulating path on the top of the dunes for about ½ mile. Fork left, shortly after passing the second of two pillboxes, remanents of World War II sea defences. Descend to a junction of paths. Turn left and follow the path across the golf course (beware!) to a gate.

5. A fingerpost indicates, “Low Newton by the Sea 1½; Coast Path” and there is a National Trust information panel “The Northumberland Coast”. (If you wish to follow the shorter 5¼-mile walk, go through the gate and walk up the access road for about 200m to a public footpath sign at Dunstan Steads where you join the longer route and turn left (see point 8).                                                                               
To continue on the main route, don’t go through the gate but turn right. Proceed ahead on the clear path with a hedge on the left and the golf course on the right. You pass the 18th hole tee-box. Follow the fairway and cross a footbridge and then, being particularly attentive of the golfers, bear left around the green.

6. Turn left to walk past or visit the Club House which welcomes visitors and offers a variety of hot and cold refreshments. Walk up the metalled path parallel to the access road. It climbs gradually and then much more steeply for the last 200m to a crossroads at Mount Pleasant in Embleton. The village shop and the Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel lie a short distance ahead. However, to continue the walk, turn left. Follow the pavement on the right-hand side of the road, passing The Greys Inn, to a road junction at the Blue Bell Inn Sambuca Italian Restaurant. Cross the road with due care towards the children’s play area and turn left. After a short climb the pavement descends to a junction.

7. Cross the road with due care and bear left, signposted, “Dunstan Steads ¾”. Now continue along the quiet road.Turn right at the public bridleway sign, “Dunstan Square 1”, just after the farmhouse and cottages at Dunstan Steads. Here the route converges with the shorter walk.

8. Both walks now follow the surfaced path around the buildings to join a concrete track. The track continues for the next mile alongside the field edge. To the east you have views of the castle and the sea while to the west lie The Cheviot Hills. You cross two cattle grids and pass an old limekiln on your left and a pillbox on either side of the track. Continue ahead and go through a gate into the farmyard at Dunstan Square. 

9. Turn left and go through the gate at the fingerpost, “Craster 1; Dunstanburgh Castle ¼”. Proceed straight ahead. The path de scends to go through a gate and then climbs through a gap in the gorse-covered cliffs
(The Heughs) into a field. You arrive at a stile in the field corner.

10. Don’t cross the stile but instead turn right and go through the gate. Continue ahead and follow the fence/wall on your left as it makes its way around the field edge. After crossing a stile, the path narrows with gorse bushes on your right and properties on your left. You join an access drive that leads down to the main road at Norwell Brow. Turn right and walk about 150m back to the car park and the end of the walk.

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