Cranstackie & Beinn Spionnaidh (Oct)

PLEASE NOTE: The GPX trace on this route is for use as a guide only, its accuracy may change depending on the scale of map you are using. Use in combination with judgement and a paper map. We have taken all reasonable steps to ensure these walks are safe and correctly described. However things do change and all outdoor activities involve a degree of risk. The publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions or for any injuries or accidents that occur whilst following this walk. Trail magazine, Copyright Bauer Media Limited.



Distance 12.3km (7½ miles)
Total ascent 1080m
Time 5½ hours
Start / Finish track turnoff at Carbreck (NC332592); limited parking by house or just down the track: please park responsibly
Nearest town Durness
Terrain a vehicle track at first, then it’s hard work all the way with steep slopes in ascent and descent, and only occasional traces of path. Expect plenty of rough hill terrain with some moderately boggy ground low down, and slow-going bouldery sections around both summits. Good navigation is a must in low cloud.
Accommodation Durness SYHA hostel (01971) 511264; Sango Sands camping, Durness (01971) 511726; Ard na Bruthaich B&B, Rhiconich (01971) 521748
Public transport bus service 804 from Durness to Rhiconich – ask to get off at Carbreck: Traveline Scotland www.travelinescotland.com
Guidebook The Corbetts & Other Scottish Hills, pb SMC.

Cranstackie and Beinn Spionnaidh are mountains on the edge, the last real high ground you come to travelling north before falling off the rim of the British mainland. This pair of fine Corbetts stands in glorious isolation between two long sea lochs, the sandy Kyle of Durness and cold, grey Loch Eriboll. As is so typical of Scotland’s far north, these are mountains of wide empty spaces and huge stormy skies. To the east are Bens Hope and Loyal; southwards is the scree-draped complexity of near neighbour Foinaven; and to the west the rolling desolation of Cape Wrath. But look north and there’s the open sea, stretching off towards the Arctic.

Despite easy access from the nearby A838 the hills have the sense of remote challenge and openness so typical of Scotland’s far north; paths are few, and fellow walkers are thin on the ground here. By localstandards this is a short and relatively easy circuit, but though Cranstackie and Beinn Spionnaidh look smoothly grassy from the road – dare I suggest even dull – the Ben Hope, Ben Loyal and Loch Eriboll from Cranstackie’s north-east ridge.  Appearance is deceptive. There’s plenty of rough ground underfoot, and up close the hills have an unexpectedly craggy grandeur, particularly Cranstackie.

NC332592 From Carbreck take the gravel farm track towards Rhigolter farm, with enticing views of today’s hills and nearby Foinaven from the off. The track descends gradually to cross a bridge over the River Dionard, then continues roughly south before kinking south-east to reach the farm buildings after nearly 2km. Go through a gate to pass left of the big barn, then just before the private house and outbuildings peel left off the track to pass through another gate onto the open hillside.

NC339577 This is the standard route of ascent and descent, but even here there’s only the merest trace of a path – a good indication of what to expect from the rest of the day. Head straight uphill beside a small burn, then continue steeply upwards to a gate in the top right corner of a fence.

Now make a long, rising traverse rightwards up a seemingly interminable reed-choked slope to emerge onto more manageable level ground in the mouth of Calbhach Coire, a broad, peaty scoop between Cranstackie and Beinn Spionnaidh. Skirt around the left side of the corrie floor to minimise the bog quotient, then at the back of the corrie follow an obvious burn very steeply uphill (not the deep gully on the left wall of the corrie). This leads onto the pronounced col dividing the two peaks.

NC356562 Turn right, climbing a steep, grassy prow above the corrie crags to reach a short, level section of ridge. The final slopes of Cranstackie now loom steeply ahead, and give a tough climb on jumbled boulders. Go roughly south-south-west across the boulderfield on the summit plateau (careful navigation needed in poor visibility) to the cairn on top, which is poised on the edge of the mountain’s craggy western flank. From here the view south to the grey, multi-  topped Foinaven massif is  jaw-dropping. 

NC350555 Retrace your steps down the boulders and the ridge to the central col. Now head roughly north-north-east for a long, steady plod up a pathless, grassy slope. The angle begins to ease, but then boulder slopes give hard going up to the rock-strewn plateau top of Beinn Spionnaidh. Don’t be fooled by a deceptive little cairn that marks the top of Beinn Spionnaidh’s northwest ridge – the true summit qis several hundred metres further north-east across the plateau, and marked with a trig point in a ring of huge stones. There’s an expansive outlook from here to the sea.

NC362572 Keeping a close eye on the compass again, return across the boulders to the ‘decoy’ cairn of stage 4. Here cut hard right to drop quite steeply onto the broad north-west ridge. The ground soon turns from stony to grassy. Climb briefly onto the minor summit of Cioch Mhor. From here a direct descent of the ridge soon becomes unpleasantlysteep, so strike roughly south-south-west towards the mouth of Calbhach Coire, then descend over the reedy lower slopes to rejoin the farm track at Rhigolter. Return the way you came.