recommended routeBanyuls-sur-Mer to Portbou
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/ Banyuls-sur-MerPhoto: Robbie Thurley, Macs Adventure -
/ Banyuls HarbourPhoto: Robbie Thurley, Macs Adventure
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/ Early morning scuba divers with Cap Béar in the distance.Photo: Robbie Thurley, Macs Adventure
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/ Cap Cerbère.Photo: Robbie Thurley, Macs Adventure
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/ Crossing the border into Spain.Photo: Robbie Thurley, Macs Adventure
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/ Following the GR92 to Portbou.Photo: Robbie Thurley, Macs Adventure
Crossing the border into Spain today, follow a coastal path from Banyuls-sur-Mer all the way to the little town of Portbou. Leaving Banyuls, clifftop paths take you high above the turquoise sea, passing numerous sheltered coves. Stop for refreshments in Cerbere—the last French town before Spain and home to a protected marine nature reserve—before continuing to Portbou across the rugged headland separating France and Spain.
From Portbou, catch the train (10min) to the nearby fishing port of Llanca, your next overnight stop. Trains run hourly and you can view the timetables here - http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/index.html.
Author’s recommendation
Safety information
As this is a coastal region and the route crosses exposed, high ground the weather can change quite quickly. Be sure to check to the forecasts before setting off and listen to advice offered from the locals.Tips and hints
Food & Drink
Banyuls-sur-Mer has a good selection of stores and delis if you would like to take a packed lunch with you on today's walk. Otherwise you have the option of bars and restaurants in Cerbère and Portbou.
Points of interest
Cru Banyuls-Collioure Vineyard
On today's walk you pass through the world famous Banyuls vineyards, almost 6000 kilometers of dry stone walls form the terraces above the Mediterranean Sea on which stand many varieties of grape vine. Grenache dominates the region and, along with the Muscat grape, produces a naturally sweet wine which is generally drunk as an aperitif or as a dessert wine. Be sure not to leave the area without trying a glass or two for yourself.
GR92 Path
Join the GR 92 (Grande Randonnée) on your approach to Portbou today, one of the long distance paths and trails forming the network of GRs across France and Spain. The trail crosses Catalonia, from the Portbou down to Ulldecona along the Mediterranean coast. The route actually covers 583km all the way to Cádiz, Andalucía, but the small sections covered over the next few days will give you a great taster should you wish to take on the whole thing in future!
Start
Destination
Turn-by-turn directions
0.00 km – Start facing the entrance to the port then TURN RIGHT and follow the curving, redbrick path.
0.13 km – At the end of the boardwalk TURN SHARP RIGHT to then take the staircase at the side of a large cream building. Yellow paint markers point the way.
0.24 km – TURN LEFT at the top of the track to join the main road.
0.46 km – TURN RIGHT at the roundabout to follow the sign for Cerbère.
0.66 km – TURN LEFT to cross the road at the pedestrian crossing and follow the footpath behind the low barrier.
0.78 km – STRAIGHT ON as the footpath no heads downhill and away from the road.
1.40 km – BEAR RIGHT at the split in the track as it heads uphill, then continue STRAIGHT ON to follow the sign for Cerbère.
1.80 km – After a steep descent cross a small stream then head STRAIGHT ON up the hillside ahead.
1.90 km – TURN RIGHT at the small stone cairn then continue following the yellow markers.
2.20 km – TURN LEFT at the junction as you join a slightly wider track then, after 50m, BEAR RIGHT at the split.
2.50 km – BEAR RIGHT across a small rocky cove to follow wide gravel track.
2.60 km – TURN LEFT to leave the track, following the sign for Cerbère. Now passing through the famed Cru Banyuls-Collioure Vineyards.
2.90 km – Continue STRAIGHT ON, keeping the fence to you right.
3.30 km – At the top of a steady climb BEAR LEFT to pass a small wine tasting hut. Yellow markers lead you past a great lookout point where you can see Cerbère in the distance.
3.50 km – BEAR LEFT at the hairpin to continue on the cliff top track.
3.70 km – TURN RIGHT at the junction to continue downhill.
3.90 km – Cross a small wooden bridge then BEAR LEFT up hillside.
4.40 km – Head STRAIGHT ON across the pebble beach then take the path on the opposite side.
4.90 km – Go through the green gate then TURN LEFT following the small road past a helicopter pad and hospital.
5.00 km – Go STRAIGHT ON through the next green gate, yellow markers point the way.
5.30 km – TURN LEFT at the sign for Cerbère, now heading away from the hospital and past a small Pine wood.
5.40 km – TURN LEFT at the top of the wooden steps.
5.70 km – TURN RIGHT past the metal as you pass Le Cap Peyrefite and a small caravan park.
6.00 km – TURN RIGHT to continue following the fence line.
6.20 km – TURN RIGHT at the wooden barrier to head towards the apartment building then, after 50m, BEAR LEFT to pick up the coast trail again.
6.50 km – STRAIGHT ON, now following a path parallel to the train tracks.
6.80 km – Cross a small stream then continue STRAIGHT ON up the opposite side of the gully.
7.60 km – Continue STRAIGHT ON along the trail, soon BEARING RIGHT over the top of the rail tunnel.
7.80 km – At the top of the concrete steps TURN LEFT to follow the road into Cerbères Centre Ville.
8.40 km – Follow the main road directly though Cerbères and past it’s small beach and harbour. There are a few restaurants and bars here if you would like to stop for lunch.
8.70 km – Stay on the main road as you pass the diving (plongee) centre on your left.
9.50 km – As the road bears right past the cemetery TURN LEFT to join Sentier du Duoanier.
9.70 km – Pass a small parking area then the lighthouse and lookout point of Cap Cerbère. Pick up the trail again following the sign for ‘Puig Cervera (Spanish Border)’ as it heads steeply uphill.
10.50 km – BEAR LEFT passing a sign for the GR92 to continue uphill.
10.60 km – TURN RIGHT as you reach the summit of Puig Cervera. The trail now follows the ridgeline as it straddles the France/Spain border. There are good views to your left of Portbou.
11.30 km – BEAR LEFT at the split in the trail and continue along the ridge.
11.50 km – STRAIGHT ON past an old gun turret then BEAR RIGHT to stay on the trail.
11.60 km – TURN LEFT as you reach the main road. The Coll del Belitres marks the border crossing into Spain. Bienvenido! After 20m TURN RIGHT just beyond the small stone building to join the dirt track, yellow markers point the way.
11.70 km – TURN LEFT at the sign for Portbou, heading downhill past a ruined stone building on your right.
12.20 km – TURN LEFT to join the concrete lane as it continues downhill.
12.30 km – TURN SHARP RIGHT as you now enter the outskirts of Portbou.
12.60 km – As the roads bears right TURN LEFT, white arrows painted on the road point the way.
12.70 km – Descend the steps and continue STRAIGHT ON under the road.
12.80 km – Descend the stone ramps to the waters edge then finish your walk here. Enjoy a drink and some tapas in the sunshine before the 5 minute stroll to the station to catch your train to Llança.
Note
Coordinates
Equipment
Along with your usual kit for a day out in the hills, be sure to pack a wind/waterproof and think about taking poles if you're at all unsteady on your feet over rough ground.
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