After a taxi transfer skips the climb to Jaizkabel, you join the Camino del Norte (northern pilgrimage route), the oldest and one of the most mountainous pilgrimage routes. As you walk, picture yourself in the footsteps of the countless people who have embarked on this journey for centuries.
True to its hilly reputation, today’s hike climbs over two mountains. Firstly, the path balances precariously atop the ridgeline of Mount Jaizkabel, enjoying endless views to the sea on one side, and mountain and valleys on the other. A string of ancient towers crumble along this ridgeline, having benefitted from its lofty vantage point. Later, the trail climbs across the shoulder of Mount Ulia revealing the dramatic coastline up close and passing a number of towers and lighthouses.
I must briefly mention Pasaia which is a gem in the middle of today’s hike, a fishing port that oozes character. The river washes past houses, where the accumulation of centuries of seaweed denotes the highwater mark on their brickwork. A tiny ferry belches fumes as it shuttles pilgrims and locals (and you!) back and forth across the river, saving an 8.5km trip via the nearest bridge. This historical and cultural insight complements the natural beauty and ensures today’s hike is one of superlatives.
Author’s recommendation
Safety information
There are some exposed and unfenced edges throughout the walk; be careful and remain on the path.
There are several stretches where you must walk on the road as there is no pavement. Walk on the left side facing the oncoming traffic unless there is a sharp bend, in which case you should cross to the outside edge to allow drivers the maximum time to see you.
Much of the path is along rocky and wooden steps; be careful as these may be slippery, especially when wet.
Some of the fields may have cows and horses in; they are not aggressive but take care not to startle them, and pass around them with a wide berth.
There are hunting hides established near this footpath. They face away from the footpath, so be sure not to deviate from the main trail.
Tips and hints
Points of Interest
Camino del Norte
The Camino del Norte (northern pilgrimage route) is one of the 8 main routes to Santiago de Compostela, and thought to be the oldest – necessitated by Muslim-occupied areas further south. It is also one of the more mountainous and tougher routes, meaning it was largely abandoned as flatter routes to the south became safe.
Ulia Park
Before reaching San Sebastian the footpath passes through the woodland of Ulia Park. In the early 20th century, an elegant funfair was built here to entertain the upper classes who would holiday in San Sebastian. Additionally, from this park on the shoulder of Mount Ulia, locals would look out for whales which could be captured for food, and ships that required a tugboat to enter Pasaia.
Pasaia
Pasia’s port remains central to its economy, as it has for hundreds of years. The nearby museum, ‘Albaola, The Sea Factory of the Basques’ showcases a variety of boats including a replica of the Nao San Juan, a 16th century whaling ship, and a number of nearby restaurants offer delightful seafood dishes – though you won’t find whale on the menu today!
Food and Drink
There are a number of restaurants and bars in Pasaia after 8.5 kilometres, and a café on the shoulder of Mount Ulia after 12.5 kilometres.
Start
Destination
Turn-by-turn directions
0.00km – After the taxi transfer drops you at Torre de Santa Barbara, stand facing the 4 arched window-places in the ruin and with your back to the car park. TURN RIGHT, along the cobbled path, through a wooden gate, and then head uphill towards the grassy hill. You are following yellow arrows, and walking parallel to the road on your right. There may be horses in this field; take care not to startle them and pass around them with a wide berth.
1.50km – At the top of the summit just before the large antennaes, BEAR RIGHT following the yellow arrow and heading downhill towards a wooden gate in the fence. As you emerge onto a paved road, TURN RIGHT and then immediately TURN LEFT to walk on the lower road, still parallel to the coast on your right.
2.00km – As the paved road ends at the gate to an antenna, BEAR RIGHT to pass around the wire fence and follow the gravel path which contours along the mountain.
2.70km – As the path splits just before a derelict tower, CONTINUE STRAIGHT ON ignoring the sharp right turn into the woodland which is waymarked with red and white blazes of paint. You can follow the Camino de Santiago sign to Lezo and Pasaia.
4.30km – Shortly after passing under the overhead lines, ignore the sharp left turn that heads into the woodland even though it is marked with yellow arrows and the Camino de Santiago sign. Instead, TURN RIGHT along the more established path, following the sign for Lehenbixiko Dorrea. As the path forks after 50 metres, BEAR LEFT uphill, following the red and white blazes of paint. There are hides for hunting along this section; they face away from the path, but be sure not to deviate from the main trail.
5.00km – TURN LEFT as the path splits, to pass through the wire fence and into the woodland, even though this passes a red and white cross. After 50 metres as the path splits beside a wooden gate, TURN RIGHT to head downhill on the rock and mud path.
5.50km – BEAR RIGHT as you emerge onto a wider and flat mud path. You have now rejoined the Camino de Santiago and can follow the yellow arrows again. Remain on this path ignoring all side paths.
5.90km – BEAR RIGHT uphill as you emerge onto the sweeping bend of a paved road. There is a footpath beside the road that passes behind the metal guardrail. After 500 metres, just after passing beneath overhead lines, TURN LEFT onto the minor paved road which heads downhill.
7.10km – BEAR LEFT as the road forks to follow the narrow lane which heads steeply downhill. Ignore all side paths.
7.60km – TURN RIGHT at the T-junction with a paved road, passing through a No Entry sign. After 400 metres CONTINUE STRAIGHT ON passing through a second No Entry sign.
8.20km – As the path splits after descending several steps, TURN RIGHT to continue following the winding steps which head downhill towards the river.
8.25km – As the steps emerge at a viewpoint beside two benches, TURN LEFT to descend to the river. As you emerge at the river, TURN LEFT to walk along the street, passing through Pasaia and keeping the river on your right.
8.60km – TURN RIGHT as you arrive at a floating jetty beside a shelter and the Camino de Santiago sign. There is a ferry that shuttles back and forth between the banks of the river.
8.80km – After alighting from the ferry, TURN RIGHT to walk towards the sea, keeping the river on your right.
9.60km – As you reach the lighthouse and harbour arm, CONTINUE STRAIGHT ON to climb the steep and winding steps.
10.00km – TURN RIGHT as you emerge onto a paved road, following the Camino de Santiago sign to Donostia-San Sebastian.
10.60km – As you reach a roundabout with the lighthouse ahead, TURN LEFT past the information boards and along the wide, flat path.
12.10km – BEAR LEFT as the path forks to continue along the established, cobbled stone road. You are following the Camino de Santiago sign to Donostia-San Sebastian. Ignore the right fork, also signposted to San Sebastian, which follows the GR-121 route.
12.20km – TURN RIGHT as you emerge onto the paved road. BEAR RIGHT as the road forks after 100 metres, to continue heading uphill. Remain on this road ignoring all side roads.
13.40km – As you emerge into a car parking area, BEAR RIGHT between the large stone pillars and follow the paved road downhill. After 20 metres, as the wooden fencing finishes, TURN RIGHT from the paved road and follow the mud path downhill through the woodland. Continue following the yellow arrows downhill through the woodland, and ignoring all uphill side paths.
14.40km – CONTINUE STRAIGHT ON as you reach a crossroads of paths, heading downhill towards Donostia and passing below the stone wall of Monpas Fort, on your left.
14.70km – Shortly after the road becomes paved, TURN RIGHT onto the paved footpath which heads downhill. This path is steep and may be slippery when wet so walk with care, and use walking poles if you have them.
15.10km – As you reach a paved road, CONTINUE STRAIGHT ON to cross at the zebra crossing (black and white markings) and descend the steps towards the clock and belltower. At the junction with a busy road beside traffic lights, TURN RIGHT to walk towards the beach, and then TURN LEFT to walk along the promenade with the beach on your right.
16.00km – As you reach the river, TURN LEFT and then TURN RIGHT to cross at the bridge. Once over the bridge, CONTINUE STRAIGHT ON.
16.70km – Finish beside the Ayuntamiento building (Town Hall) and in the wide plaza. Why not stop at a café for some celebratory food and drinks?
Note
Coordinates
Equipment
Sturdy hiking boots and a waterproof/wind-break layer are required. Walking poles will be a big advantage on some of the steep ascents and descents.
Ensure your phone is fully charged; if you doubt the battery will last throughout the hike, it might be beneficial to bring a power bank.
Make sure you bring enough water. It is recommended to drink 0.75 litres per 1 hour of hiking in hot weather.
Be sure to bring plenty of sun-cream and a healthy respect for the sun.
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