Phajoding Monastery

Phudjoding is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. It’s a well-worn track, better in some places than others. If you’re walking it during monsoon season, be prepared for a muddy, slippery track. It’s also the start/end point for the Druk Path (highly recommended!) and as such frequently has horse teams traversing it. You may have to get off the path to let them pass, if you don’t, they will push you off which is quite unpleasant.

The start point is above the Takin Reserve, at a small tea shop. It is well signed, and most taxi drivers know where it is. The trip from town will cost around Nu250-300. At the sign, the path either goes up the hill or along the river, take the path up as the other path will take you to Pomola. If you’re feeling adventurous you can walk to Pomola Goempa where there’s a trail that joins the Phudjoding path (15kms, 6-9 hours, 3600m elevation); give yourself plenty of time, especially in the winter months. You may also start this trek at BBS Tower (you can drive up to the tower) which won’t take as long as starting from the tea shop.

There are a number of times where the track splits and one point where 5 paths converge under an oak tree. That is a nice place to pause for lunch or a snack. As with most Bhutan tracks, just keep heading up. There is minimal signage, look for a red plank with yellow writing pointing the way. At the top, enjoy the view, swing on the tree swing or watch the monks play soccer in their spare time between study. If it’s winter there is the chance of snow, pack accordingly. The monastic body are very welcoming of guests, be prepared for a chat and to share food with them.

If you’re a fast walker, it is possible to go to the chorten on the top of the peak above Phudjoding (another hour and a half above the monastery) and back in a day. If you have a bit more time, stay overnight and head up to the 1000 lakes. If you plan to do so, start off early as it will take 7 – 8 hours return to Phudjoding. There is only one path, it’s not well signed but difficult to get lost.