Duration: 2 hours approach to the hut, 5–6-hour climb to the summit
Base camp is the Hörnli Hut (3260m), which was renovated in 2015 and is now one of the most expensive huts in the alpine region. The ascent to the Hörnli Hut takes about two hours from the Schwarzsee cable car station. The 1200 meters of ascent to the summit (1700 meters of climbing) demand extreme concentration both on the way up (five to six hours) and on the way down (at least four hours).
The hut serves breakfast at around 4 a.m. and the mountain guides and their guests line up right at the front of the queue for the ridge.
Safety informationFinding the way is not easy, especially in the dark. It’s best to check out the route the day before. If you find yourself on unsound terrain, you’ve gone wrong. Crampon tracks will show you the right direction. The rock directly on the route is mostly sound and grippy, but the flanks can be disconcertingly unsound.
It’s best to go with a mountain guide, preferably one you know and trust.
The fact that more than 500 people have lost their lives on the Matterhorn speaks volumes.
Tips, hints and linksArticle by Marlies & Andi:
Hörnli Hütte, open from Juli-September,
Tel. +41 27 967 22 64,
Zermatt Alpincenter, Bahnhofstrasse 58, 3920 Zermatt, Schweiz
Tel. +41 27 966 24 60,
Zermatt Bergbahnen AG, CH-3920 Zermatt,
Tel. +41 27 9660101,
normal operation in peak season (July, August) from 6:30 a.m. (off-season from 8:30 a.m.);
Getting thereVia Visp, into the Matter Valley to Täsch (parking garage); from there by rail to car-free Zermatt. Very good rail connection (approx. three hours from Zurich; trains run at least once an hour).
Zermatt is completely car-free. Cars are only allowed as far as Täsch (five kilometers from Zermatt). You can park in the parking garage or in a privately owned space. From there you can continue by taxi or train. Shuttle trains run every twenty minutes. The journey to Zermatt train station takes ten minutes. Continue from there by foot.