Alpinklettern in den Alpen
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What is alpine climbing?
In contrast to sport climbing, the goal of alpine climbing is to climb a whole wall over several pitches and in the end, at best, even to stand on a mountain peak. Usually you climb with your rope partner with two half ropes rolled over from belaystation to belaystation. The lead climber climbs the first rope length ahead, then comes to the belaystation (at best two bolts, sometimes there is only one bolt, several mobile securing devices must be attached, a tree or a rock head), which he usually builds at 2 fixed points. He then pulls the rope in until the rope stops at the two figure-of-eight knots in the belay of the descending climber.
Then the forewarder takes the two ropes into his belay device at the belaystation and secures the descendant to himself. The second climber unhooks the quikdraws during the ascent. Once at the belaystation, the newcomer secures himself at the belaystation. This is where the change of leadership takes place, because now the newcomer is climbing the second rope length. All quikdraws, if necessary clamping devices and the printed topo are handed over to him.
And so you climb on from pitch to pitch. This is a very useful and cooperative way of climbing, because the first climber can always rest at the belaystation for two rope lengths, while the second climber climbs the next rope length. It is of course also possible that only one climber climbs and leads the entire route, for example if the partner is weaker or simply doesn't dare to lead because the hook distances are too far.
Trust is the Alpha and Omega
Especially when it comes to alpine climbing, trusting your rope partner plays an important role, because you have to be able to rely on your partner at all times.
When the trust is there after a few tours together, you will quickly notice how safely and quickly you can climb through walls.
Besides trust, you will also get moral support from your rope partner. Words of encouragement can make the difference.
Equipment for alpine climbing
- climbing harness
- climbing helmet
- climbing shoes
- safety and abseiling device (e.g. ATC from Black Diamond + HMS carabiner)
- chalkbag plus chalk
- tape loops
- Dyneema or Kevlar cords
- prussic sling
- HMS- and screw carabiner
- snap carabiner
- first aid kit/bivouac bag
- topo map
- cell phone
- knive (to remove old slings or to cut rope cords during unplanned abseiling maneuvers)
- backpack (depending on whether or not it is possible to rope down the route, if so the backpack can be deposited at the foot of the wall)
- single rope (Ø 8,9-10,5 mm, mainly for alpine sport climbing routes)
- half rope (Ø 7,8-9 mm, used in pairs, alpine routes - triple or double rope)
- twin rope (Ø 6,9-8 mm, alpine routes - double rope)
If you enter routes that are plausibly secured (belays drilled, all necessary bolts available), you do not need any additional, mobile safety devices. However, if you start on more alpine routes, mobile securing devices such as friends, nuts and slings are indispensable, sometimes even a hammer and pegs are needed.
- more tape loops
- nuts with nut-key
- pegs and hammer
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